Matagalpa, Esteli, Jinotega
The northern mountain regions of Nicaragua are a different world from what most people expect in a tropical country. The three major cities of this region, Jinotega, Matagalpa, and Esteli are the areas known for cigars, coffee and the lake area. For example, when in Jinotepe, the views are reminiscent of western North Carolina and the Smoky Mountains. It can get quite cold at night. Bring a jacket!
Jinotega
Jinotega is the capital of Jinotega Department in the north central region of Nicaragua. From December through February (coffee season) you'll see trucks barrelling in and out of the city and men hauling coffee on their backs in a frantic scurry. Temperatures range from 18 to 22C. The city of Jinotega is located in a valley surrounded by mountains at an elevation of about 3,000 feet. The Spanish arrived at the beginning of the 17th century but most traces of the indigenous population have vanished but left interesting artifacts and other historical objects that have been preserved and are exhibited in the Harvey Wells Museum in Jinotega.
The capital city of the Department of Jinotega is the City of Jinotega. The Department of Jinotega produces 80% of the nation's coffee. It has a population of about 51,000 as of 2005 living inside a vast valley surrounded by mountains. It is known as "La Ciudad de las Brumas" ("City of Mists") for the magnificent whisks of clouds continuously feathering through the top of the valley.
History
According to locals, Jinotega began when five Spanish families moved north from Matagalpa to settle the "dry zone" or "zona seca" community of Naranjo which lies within the department of Jinotega - about 15kilometers south of the city of Jinotega. The city of Jinotega was formed in the middle of a bowl-like mountainous area as a natural place for farmers in the surrounding countryside to come and trade. A large cross was placed at the highest point on the western edge of the city. It can be seen illuminated at night.
The Name Jinotega derives from the Nahuatl word "Xinotencatl". Linguists disagree on the meaning of this word. Some interpret it as "City of the Old Men", whereas others translate it as "Neighbors of the Jiñocuabos". The word "Neighbors" here should be understood as being like the ending "ville" or "land" in English, like e.g. in "Janesville" or "Maryland". The interpretation as "Neighbors of the Jiñocuabos" is more likely to be the right one, since Jiñocuabo is a tree (bursera simaruba) which was praised by the natives as a healing tree. Jiñocuabo trees still grow in the areas surrounding Jinotega.
The Jinotega region was perhaps the most war-torn region in Nicaragua's history. Its remote location provided a haven for rebel forces throughout the last seven decades. The most intense battles took place in the Department of Jinotega between 1927 and 1934 under Augusto C. Sandino and his troops (popularly known as "los Bandoleros") against the American occupation troops (popularly known as "los marinos yankis"). Later, at the end of the 1970s Jinotega was a place of bitter war between the troops of Anastasio Somoza Debayle and the civil population. Somoza was defeated on July 19, 1979. After a short period of enthusiasm, civil war began again between government troops of the new Sandinista regime and civilians who felt betrayed by the Sandinistas.
Things to Do and SeeIn general, Jinotega has a small laid-back town feel without the usual tourist trappings. The people are friendly but more reserved than you will find in the bigger cities of Nicaragua. There are lots of trails if that is your thing. If you are lucky you will catch one of the many hípicas or horse parades, they love a parade here, The hípicas are a way for Jinotega, mostly men, to show off their horses. You can buy a pair of custom made cowboy boots for a thousand cords from a little shop in the market but get the rubber soles since the leather soles slip more. But then again, are they truly cowboy boots with rubber soles?
You may wish to see the Peña de La Cruz, a hill with a cross at the top. From there you have great views of the Jinotega valley and surrounding mountains. The trail to the top begins in the cemetery at the base of the hill. The journey to the top is steep at times, taking about 30-60 minutes.
Apanas Lake
Apanas Lake is Nicaragua’s first artificial lake created by damming the Tuma River into the Apanas Valley. The Apanas Lake project provides much of the electric power for Nicaragua though the huge lake offers tourist activities as well.
The lake is just outside of Jinotega and the forested area around the lake provides superb scenery and refuge for the many birds and other animals living. Horseback riding and fishing are other activities that are available along with boating, fishing and kayaking.
Because the area is not well known yet to the tourists, there are few publicized tours. Jinotega is a small town so just ask around and you’ll find whatever you are looking for.
Peñas Blancas Massif
The Peñas Blancas Massif is a beautiful natural area in the department of Jinotega and being at an altitude of 1,745 meters this is one of the highest points in Nicaragua. This area is located northeast of Jinotega and is takes some effort to reach it, ensuring tranquility, untouched forests and beautiful settings.
Nature is one of the primary attractions. The Peñas Blancas Massif forms part of the Bosawás Biosphere Reserve and it has both cloud forests and rainforests. There are rocky cliffs, beautiful waterfalls, gigantic ferns, and a large variety of orchids in addition to spectacular wildlife including tapirs, coatimundi and even pumas. The coatimundi is an omnivore related to the raccoon.
In addition to hiking and exploring the region’s impressive natural settings, visitors can also enjoy great, local food when staying in one of the rural communities in the area. Observing the everyday life of farmers in this region can also be interesting. Rural community visitors can take a peek into the rustic but definitely interesting Nicaraguan countryside life. Coffee producers can also be visited to learn more about coffee production.
San Rafael del Norte
The small village of San Rafael del Norte is located only 25 kilometers from Jinotega. This town a pretty little village that is famous for being the birthplace of the wife of the national hero Augusto C. Sandino. Sandino fell in love here with Blanca Aráuz while he lived in the town duing 1927. The family house of his wife is a museum where historical objects like old newspaper articles and a letter from Sandino take you back to the time when Sandino and his men fought against foreign dominance.
Another well known inhabitant was the priest Odorico D’Andrea. This Italian priest arrived in San Rafael del Norte in 1954 and helped setting up a health center and giving the inhabitants access to potable water and electricity, among other things. The priest, who died in 1990, is buried in his beloved city, in the Tepeyac Temple. The priest was also responsible for the renovation of the large cathedral of San Rafael del Norte. The cathedral is located in the center of the town and it is quite impressive
The El Jaguar Reserve is also here and offers several trails for great bird watching possibilities. There are cabins available for tourists. You may wish to visit the Kilimanjaro Farm coffee plantation that is open to visitors to learn more about coffee production. Horseback rides and lodging are also available.
Matagalpa
Matagalpa is the capital city of the department of Matagalpa and has a population of 109,100 (2005 census) while the population of the entire department is 480,000. Here you can visit two buildings, famous for their architecture and history: the temple of San Jose de Laborio in front of Ruben Dario Park and the Cathedral of San Pedro. At a short distance from town and at 1200 meters above sea level you can find the black forest (La Selva Negra) a famous cloud forest ideal for bird watching and relaxation.
If you like mountain hiking, bird watching, horseback riding, ecotourism, agritourism, Indian villages, coffee farms, mountain scenery, temperate climate, polkas, Mazurcas musi, and history, Matagalpa may be the place to visit. it was called "The Frontier of the Jungle" by the Spanish Conquistadores because it divided the historical Mosquito Kingdom and the Colonial Spanish towns. Many of the residents speak English though the area has a rich German heritage. The departmento of Matagalpa has 12 different protected forest areas with many varieties of birds, orchids and of wild life (mountain lion, deer, howler monkeys, quetzal, toucans, sloth, ocelot and wild pigs.
The name “Matagalpa” comes from the Sumo language, and means "Let's go where the rocks are."
History
Matagalpa was an indigenous village and the original Indians had their own language but it has been extinct since 1875. Matagalpa was settled by the Spaniards in 1554 during the period of trying to find a water passage to the Caribbean. Matagalpa is located in the Continental Divide between the Pacific Ocean and the Caribbean Sea. Many stories are preserved from the Colonial times about the British controlled Mosquito Coast and the Spanish-colonized Pacific area.
Gold was discovered around Matagalpa in the 1850s. Along with many Spaniards and Mestizo, it attracted some foreigners. Some of the better known immigrants of this period were Ludwig Elster (from Hannover) and his wife Katharina Braun (from the Black Forest) who planted the first coffee trees in the area and Germany became the market for them. Coffee agriculture attracted more than 120 foreign immigrants, many of whom married Matagalpan women and many of their descendants still live in the area. That is the reason that one sees people of lighter complexion in this area than in Managua, Granada or Leon.
Matagalpa was also where many Nicaraguans escaped the invasion of William Walker who took over much of the country and government in 1856. In Matagalpa the patriots organized the "Ejercito del Septentrion" (Army of the North) that fought in and won the Battle of San Jacinto September 14th, 1856, helping to end Walker's dominion in Nicaragua. Matagalpa was also the birthplace of Nazario Vega, Governor and Constructor of the Cathedral; Bartolome Martinez, President of Nicaragua, 1923-24, and Carlos Fonseca Amador, founder of the Sandinista Front in 1961.
Currently Matagalpa is the second most populated department of Nicaragua after Managua and the most diversified in production. Over the past few years Matagalpa has experienced a large influx of migrants. Many historians, archeologists, botanists and ethnologists have arrived in recent years to research the area. American and European descendants of these first settlers also are coming back to visit the historical homes of their ancestors.
Economy
Matagalpa produces and exports beef, cheese, coffee, cacao, onions, tomatoes, mixed fruits and vegetables. For local consumption it produces flowers, wood, corn, beans, fruits (oranges, grapefruits, bananas, plantains) and many kinds of vegetables such as broccoli and cauliflower.
Matagalpa is known for its good quality coffee, its cattle, milk products, vegetables, flowers and mountains for ecotourism. It is the location of mountain tourist resorts like Aranjuez, Santa Maria de Ostuma, and Selva Negra Mountain Resort.
Things to Do and See
Matagalpa is a nice town to just visit, walk around and take some pictures. Historical chuches include: The Cathedral (1874), San Jose (1750), and the Molaguina (1800s). Saint Peter’s Cathedral is the major building of the city, was built by the Jesuit fathers starting in 1874 and finished in 1895. The colonial Santa Ana church disappeared in the 1850s but you can see its old foundations just across from the "Escuela de Parvulos" and the remaining walls of the Jesuit Fathers Convent(now Cancha del Bridadista), Museo del Café (coffee museum), Casa Cuna de Carlos Fonseca Amador (1936-1975), the former residence of President Bartolome Martinez (1870-1936) and finally the house of the Comunidad Indigena.
Matagalpa has two public libraries but the Vicente Vita located at la calle de los Bancos has many computers & free Internet access In the Bishop´s Palace (Calle de lso Bancos) there is a small Chapel called "El Ateneo” with a large 5x 10 feet oil painting named Sagrada Familia which is believed to be painted by Bartolomeo Murillo, a classical Spanish painter in the 1640s. It shows the Virgin Mary, Saint Joseph, Saint Ignatius Loyola and Saint Louis Gonzaga. According to a legend from 1881, the Jesuit fathers, before they were expulsed by the government, gave it to the local family Baldizon. The family has not allowed it to be sold or moved to another place.
Also visit the Castillo de Cacao, located just outside of the city limits, this tiny chocolate factory manufactures high quality chocolate, and if you call ahead, you can arrange a free factory tour.www.elcastillodelcacao.com
Buy
Matagalpa is known for its Indian community and German heritage which is an unusual combination. The Indian community is mostly in El Chile, 18 kilometers from the city on the way to the town of San Ramon. They make their own cotton fabric and leather articles for sale. Black ceramic is also unique to this region. You can also buy locally cowboy boots, guitars and violins. Close to the Cathedral there is an oil painting workshop where you can buy oil paintings of local scenes like coffee farms, ranches, oxen carts, campesinos and mountain scenery at reasonable prices. You can buy local fruits like bananas, pijibay, jocotes, oranges, grapefruit, nisperos, mamey, etc.
Eat
While in Matagalpa you can eat traditional Indian cuisine, like:
"Guirila" a thick tortilla made with corn which gives it a sweeter taste than normal tortillas. Try it with fresh, salty cheese called "cuajada".
"Nacatamal", a banana leave wrap filled with boiled Indian corn dough, some meat (pork or chicken) flavored with olives, raisin, tomatoes, onions and chili.
“Carne Asada” BBQued beef or pork meat with roasted corn tortillas
"Platanitos con frijoles molidos" fried banana slices with smashed fried red beans.
"Chrurrasco con chimichurri". BBQued beef fillet with spicey vegetable cream, white rice and salads. Accompanied with bread or corn tortillas.
"Pescado a la Tititapa". Favorite of the Gods. Fresh Guapote (Snapper type fish), bathed on whole tomato slices and onions served with rice and corn tortillas.
Drink
You can have a fresh roasted Matagalpa coffee cup cooked in a French brewer, in places like Selva Negra Mountain Resort, Cecocafen, etc. You’re gonna love the coffee. Buy several bags to take back with you.
Where to Stay
Matagalpa has many different types of lodging places. You can find little inns from US$7 to more comfortable ones from $15 to $30 per person. In the downtown area you find little hotels like: Soza, Moderno, Plaza. A few blocks from the main Cathedral you have the Fountainbleu Hotel, Lomas de Saint Thomas. the IDeal and the Caoba.
Outside of the City you will find Campestre Barcelona, La Sombra (Carretera a La Dalia), and Selva Negra Mountain Resort ( Km 140 Carrtera Matagalpa a Jinotega) and other smaller ones. Unlike other parts of Nicaragua, the room usually does not include .
Nearby
You can visit the neighboring town of San Ramon (15 minutes by car) and on weekends you can see the campesinos playing polkas y mazurcas. Visit the tomb in the local Cemetery where Katharina Braun Elster is buried (she was the first person who planted coffee in the area. As mentioned before, you should visit the Indian Community of "El Chile" where Indian do their own fabric in an old "rueca" (spinning wheel). Take the highway from Matagalpa to Jinotega for a view of Nicaragua that looks like the Smoky Mountains of North Carolina with an altitude of more than 5000 feet. You can see as far as the Momotombo Volcano near Managua and temperatures range from 55F to 70F. Little mountain hotels can be found along the road and some offer horseback riding, mountain hiking, bird watching, coffee and farm tours.
Esteli
Not that many tourists go to Esteli in northern Nicaragua though it is a nice destination with a cooler climate yet with the advantages of a larger city. An ideal location to retire to if you are looking for a quieter place but still need some restaurants and grocery stores. Many small farms dot the nearby countryside.
"El Diamante de las Segovias" ("The Diamond of the Segovias") Estelí, officially Villa de San Antonio de Pavia de Estelí, is a city and municipality within the Estelí department.
It is an active commercial center in the north located on the Pan-American Highway, 150 km north of Managua, Estelí is a fast growing and progressive city of about 119,000 people. It enjoys a pleasant climate throughout most of the year due to its location in the north central highlands at a mean elevation of 844 m above sea level. The city is also surrounded by forested mountains and plateaus that go up to 1600 m above sea level, some which are protected as natural reserves. The population is around 100,900 (2005) and their website is http://www.alcaldiaesteli.gob.ni/. Estelí has the best water supply system in the country with near-full population coverage. It also has an extensive sewage disposal coverage.
Economy & Tourism
The land around Estelí is perfect for growing tobacco for use in cigars and the town became a refuge for Cuban cigar makers after the Cuban Revolution in 1959. Award winning cigars have made Estelí one of the most important cigar-producing cities in the world. Estelí also has many language schools, restaurants, and hotels that cater to tourists traveling to nearby natural reserves and other parts of the region. Natural Reserves around the area include Miraflor, Tisey-Estanzuela, Las Brisas-Quiabuc, Tomabu, Tepesomoto and Moropotente.
According to the World Bank and International Finance Corporation's Municipal Scorecard 2008, which complements the annual Doing Business report, the municipality of Esteli ranks 1st and 2nd, out of 143 municipalities in ten Latin American countries, in quality and efficiency to obtain a construction permit and municipal operating license respectively.
Sports
Estelí is home to one the best and most popular football (soccer) clubs in the country, the Real Esteli, nicknamed "The Train of the North." It is also home to a professional baseball team, Las Segovias - Esteli, which makes it one of only three cities in the country with both a professional football (soccer) and baseball team. During the 1970s, Esteli participated in the "Roberto Clemente" baseball tournament and had one of best baseball teams in the country with the help of one-time big league players like Porfi Altamirano and Albert Williams.
See and Do
Lots of beautiful murals in various places around town.
Catedral de Estelí - The Esteli Cathedral has gone through some dramatic changes. First, in 1823 it was only a humble and small clay house. It is situated in an area of almost two acres, including the building and garden surrounding it.
Miraflor is an agricultural cooperative a couple of hours outside of Esteli in the mountains. There are a number of places at Miraflor where you can stay in cabins or with families, ride horses, meet farmers, look at orchids, etc. Famous for its many cliffs, canyons and steep valleys, its highest peak is at 1450 meters above sea level. The forest here is evergreenand it is for having a large variety of orchids. They say only 10 % of the area has been explored, with 150 species found so far but many more could be discovered. Miraflor Nature Reserve is an area of 206 square kilometers. Most attractions in Miraflor are privately owned, often by poor campesinos (farmers). Your financial support helps to continue the preservation of these unique forests. Their website is www.Miraflor.org.
236 distinct bird species belonging to 46 different families inhabit or fly through these mountains—that’s nearly 40 percent of all bird species in the country, including four species of the elusive, but beautiful quetzal, toucans, the ranchero (with its three dangling chins) and the Nicaraguan national bird, the guardabarranco. The reserves are also one of your best chances to spot coyotes, deer, sloths, howler monkeys, raccoons, skunks, armadillos, and exotic rodents. Among the more than 300 identified species of orchids is an enormous colony of Cattleya skinniri (the national flower of Costa Rica), as well as plenty of bromeliads and a museum of other orchids from throughout the reserve.
Short hikes are possible through any of the hundreds of pockets of forest, but ask your guide to take you on one of the more adventurous trips. Although difficult to access, the 60-meter waterfall at La Chorrera is one of the wildest spots in the reserve. The Caves of Apaguis were dug in pre-Columbian times by gem seekers and have been occupied ever since by duendes (dwarves), as any local will inform you. The mature cloud forest of Bosque Los Volcancitos is Miraflor’s highest point at 1,484 meters and is a known habitat for howler monkeys and quetzals.
Tisey is a nature preserve just south of Esteli. On the way up, you can stop in Estanzuela and see a waterfall. The mountains here are covered with tobacco and/or pine trees, typical of the area. Great cuisine is also a distinctive feature of this privileged region. From the top you can observe the Esteli valley. The scenery here is very pretty with colorful and large farms everywhere. The waterfall is a gorgeous 15 meter, rainy-season-only waterfall that plunges into a cold, shady pool, all smothered in colorful native flora and fauna. From the top of Tisey on a clear day, you can make out the Pacific coastal plain and the entire chain of volcanic peaks from Cosigüina to Lake Managua and Momotombo, the Estelí valley, and north to the mountains of the Segovias on the horizon.
La Garnacha is a community consisting mostly of organic farmers plus a factory of some amazingly good cheese. To visit, you need to get off the bus at the La Garnacha sign and walk up their road about 2km. From there, if you are still up for a hike, you can walk to and climb up Cerro Apaguají. It is on private property but open to the public. It's about another 1km of hike from La Garnacha. From the cerro you can see Lake Managua to the south, the chain of volcanos along the Pacific and, on a clear day, part of El Salvador on the other side of the Gulf of Fonseca.
The Esteli region is also home to many fine cigar companies, most of whom will allow a prearranged tour, and some of whom offer special package tours of their factories.
Jinotega
Jinotega is the capital of Jinotega Department in the north central region of Nicaragua. From December through February (coffee season) you'll see trucks barrelling in and out of the city and men hauling coffee on their backs in a frantic scurry. Temperatures range from 18 to 22C. The city of Jinotega is located in a valley surrounded by mountains at an elevation of about 3,000 feet. The Spanish arrived at the beginning of the 17th century but most traces of the indigenous population have vanished but left interesting artifacts and other historical objects that have been preserved and are exhibited in the Harvey Wells Museum in Jinotega.
The capital city of the Department of Jinotega is the City of Jinotega. The Department of Jinotega produces 80% of the nation's coffee. It has a population of about 51,000 as of 2005 living inside a vast valley surrounded by mountains. It is known as "La Ciudad de las Brumas" ("City of Mists") for the magnificent whisks of clouds continuously feathering through the top of the valley.
History
According to locals, Jinotega began when five Spanish families moved north from Matagalpa to settle the "dry zone" or "zona seca" community of Naranjo which lies within the department of Jinotega - about 15kilometers south of the city of Jinotega. The city of Jinotega was formed in the middle of a bowl-like mountainous area as a natural place for farmers in the surrounding countryside to come and trade. A large cross was placed at the highest point on the western edge of the city. It can be seen illuminated at night.
The Name Jinotega derives from the Nahuatl word "Xinotencatl". Linguists disagree on the meaning of this word. Some interpret it as "City of the Old Men", whereas others translate it as "Neighbors of the Jiñocuabos". The word "Neighbors" here should be understood as being like the ending "ville" or "land" in English, like e.g. in "Janesville" or "Maryland". The interpretation as "Neighbors of the Jiñocuabos" is more likely to be the right one, since Jiñocuabo is a tree (bursera simaruba) which was praised by the natives as a healing tree. Jiñocuabo trees still grow in the areas surrounding Jinotega.
The Jinotega region was perhaps the most war-torn region in Nicaragua's history. Its remote location provided a haven for rebel forces throughout the last seven decades. The most intense battles took place in the Department of Jinotega between 1927 and 1934 under Augusto C. Sandino and his troops (popularly known as "los Bandoleros") against the American occupation troops (popularly known as "los marinos yankis"). Later, at the end of the 1970s Jinotega was a place of bitter war between the troops of Anastasio Somoza Debayle and the civil population. Somoza was defeated on July 19, 1979. After a short period of enthusiasm, civil war began again between government troops of the new Sandinista regime and civilians who felt betrayed by the Sandinistas.
Things to Do and SeeIn general, Jinotega has a small laid-back town feel without the usual tourist trappings. The people are friendly but more reserved than you will find in the bigger cities of Nicaragua. There are lots of trails if that is your thing. If you are lucky you will catch one of the many hípicas or horse parades, they love a parade here, The hípicas are a way for Jinotega, mostly men, to show off their horses. You can buy a pair of custom made cowboy boots for a thousand cords from a little shop in the market but get the rubber soles since the leather soles slip more. But then again, are they truly cowboy boots with rubber soles?
You may wish to see the Peña de La Cruz, a hill with a cross at the top. From there you have great views of the Jinotega valley and surrounding mountains. The trail to the top begins in the cemetery at the base of the hill. The journey to the top is steep at times, taking about 30-60 minutes.
Apanas Lake
Apanas Lake is Nicaragua’s first artificial lake created by damming the Tuma River into the Apanas Valley. The Apanas Lake project provides much of the electric power for Nicaragua though the huge lake offers tourist activities as well.
The lake is just outside of Jinotega and the forested area around the lake provides superb scenery and refuge for the many birds and other animals living. Horseback riding and fishing are other activities that are available along with boating, fishing and kayaking.
Because the area is not well known yet to the tourists, there are few publicized tours. Jinotega is a small town so just ask around and you’ll find whatever you are looking for.
Peñas Blancas Massif
The Peñas Blancas Massif is a beautiful natural area in the department of Jinotega and being at an altitude of 1,745 meters this is one of the highest points in Nicaragua. This area is located northeast of Jinotega and is takes some effort to reach it, ensuring tranquility, untouched forests and beautiful settings.
Nature is one of the primary attractions. The Peñas Blancas Massif forms part of the Bosawás Biosphere Reserve and it has both cloud forests and rainforests. There are rocky cliffs, beautiful waterfalls, gigantic ferns, and a large variety of orchids in addition to spectacular wildlife including tapirs, coatimundi and even pumas. The coatimundi is an omnivore related to the raccoon.
In addition to hiking and exploring the region’s impressive natural settings, visitors can also enjoy great, local food when staying in one of the rural communities in the area. Observing the everyday life of farmers in this region can also be interesting. Rural community visitors can take a peek into the rustic but definitely interesting Nicaraguan countryside life. Coffee producers can also be visited to learn more about coffee production.
San Rafael del Norte
The small village of San Rafael del Norte is located only 25 kilometers from Jinotega. This town a pretty little village that is famous for being the birthplace of the wife of the national hero Augusto C. Sandino. Sandino fell in love here with Blanca Aráuz while he lived in the town duing 1927. The family house of his wife is a museum where historical objects like old newspaper articles and a letter from Sandino take you back to the time when Sandino and his men fought against foreign dominance.
Another well known inhabitant was the priest Odorico D’Andrea. This Italian priest arrived in San Rafael del Norte in 1954 and helped setting up a health center and giving the inhabitants access to potable water and electricity, among other things. The priest, who died in 1990, is buried in his beloved city, in the Tepeyac Temple. The priest was also responsible for the renovation of the large cathedral of San Rafael del Norte. The cathedral is located in the center of the town and it is quite impressive
The El Jaguar Reserve is also here and offers several trails for great bird watching possibilities. There are cabins available for tourists. You may wish to visit the Kilimanjaro Farm coffee plantation that is open to visitors to learn more about coffee production. Horseback rides and lodging are also available.
Matagalpa
Matagalpa is the capital city of the department of Matagalpa and has a population of 109,100 (2005 census) while the population of the entire department is 480,000. Here you can visit two buildings, famous for their architecture and history: the temple of San Jose de Laborio in front of Ruben Dario Park and the Cathedral of San Pedro. At a short distance from town and at 1200 meters above sea level you can find the black forest (La Selva Negra) a famous cloud forest ideal for bird watching and relaxation.
If you like mountain hiking, bird watching, horseback riding, ecotourism, agritourism, Indian villages, coffee farms, mountain scenery, temperate climate, polkas, Mazurcas musi, and history, Matagalpa may be the place to visit. it was called "The Frontier of the Jungle" by the Spanish Conquistadores because it divided the historical Mosquito Kingdom and the Colonial Spanish towns. Many of the residents speak English though the area has a rich German heritage. The departmento of Matagalpa has 12 different protected forest areas with many varieties of birds, orchids and of wild life (mountain lion, deer, howler monkeys, quetzal, toucans, sloth, ocelot and wild pigs.
The name “Matagalpa” comes from the Sumo language, and means "Let's go where the rocks are."
History
Matagalpa was an indigenous village and the original Indians had their own language but it has been extinct since 1875. Matagalpa was settled by the Spaniards in 1554 during the period of trying to find a water passage to the Caribbean. Matagalpa is located in the Continental Divide between the Pacific Ocean and the Caribbean Sea. Many stories are preserved from the Colonial times about the British controlled Mosquito Coast and the Spanish-colonized Pacific area.
Gold was discovered around Matagalpa in the 1850s. Along with many Spaniards and Mestizo, it attracted some foreigners. Some of the better known immigrants of this period were Ludwig Elster (from Hannover) and his wife Katharina Braun (from the Black Forest) who planted the first coffee trees in the area and Germany became the market for them. Coffee agriculture attracted more than 120 foreign immigrants, many of whom married Matagalpan women and many of their descendants still live in the area. That is the reason that one sees people of lighter complexion in this area than in Managua, Granada or Leon.
Matagalpa was also where many Nicaraguans escaped the invasion of William Walker who took over much of the country and government in 1856. In Matagalpa the patriots organized the "Ejercito del Septentrion" (Army of the North) that fought in and won the Battle of San Jacinto September 14th, 1856, helping to end Walker's dominion in Nicaragua. Matagalpa was also the birthplace of Nazario Vega, Governor and Constructor of the Cathedral; Bartolome Martinez, President of Nicaragua, 1923-24, and Carlos Fonseca Amador, founder of the Sandinista Front in 1961.
Currently Matagalpa is the second most populated department of Nicaragua after Managua and the most diversified in production. Over the past few years Matagalpa has experienced a large influx of migrants. Many historians, archeologists, botanists and ethnologists have arrived in recent years to research the area. American and European descendants of these first settlers also are coming back to visit the historical homes of their ancestors.
Economy
Matagalpa produces and exports beef, cheese, coffee, cacao, onions, tomatoes, mixed fruits and vegetables. For local consumption it produces flowers, wood, corn, beans, fruits (oranges, grapefruits, bananas, plantains) and many kinds of vegetables such as broccoli and cauliflower.
Matagalpa is known for its good quality coffee, its cattle, milk products, vegetables, flowers and mountains for ecotourism. It is the location of mountain tourist resorts like Aranjuez, Santa Maria de Ostuma, and Selva Negra Mountain Resort.
Things to Do and See
Matagalpa is a nice town to just visit, walk around and take some pictures. Historical chuches include: The Cathedral (1874), San Jose (1750), and the Molaguina (1800s). Saint Peter’s Cathedral is the major building of the city, was built by the Jesuit fathers starting in 1874 and finished in 1895. The colonial Santa Ana church disappeared in the 1850s but you can see its old foundations just across from the "Escuela de Parvulos" and the remaining walls of the Jesuit Fathers Convent(now Cancha del Bridadista), Museo del Café (coffee museum), Casa Cuna de Carlos Fonseca Amador (1936-1975), the former residence of President Bartolome Martinez (1870-1936) and finally the house of the Comunidad Indigena.
Matagalpa has two public libraries but the Vicente Vita located at la calle de los Bancos has many computers & free Internet access In the Bishop´s Palace (Calle de lso Bancos) there is a small Chapel called "El Ateneo” with a large 5x 10 feet oil painting named Sagrada Familia which is believed to be painted by Bartolomeo Murillo, a classical Spanish painter in the 1640s. It shows the Virgin Mary, Saint Joseph, Saint Ignatius Loyola and Saint Louis Gonzaga. According to a legend from 1881, the Jesuit fathers, before they were expulsed by the government, gave it to the local family Baldizon. The family has not allowed it to be sold or moved to another place.
Also visit the Castillo de Cacao, located just outside of the city limits, this tiny chocolate factory manufactures high quality chocolate, and if you call ahead, you can arrange a free factory tour.www.elcastillodelcacao.com
Buy
Matagalpa is known for its Indian community and German heritage which is an unusual combination. The Indian community is mostly in El Chile, 18 kilometers from the city on the way to the town of San Ramon. They make their own cotton fabric and leather articles for sale. Black ceramic is also unique to this region. You can also buy locally cowboy boots, guitars and violins. Close to the Cathedral there is an oil painting workshop where you can buy oil paintings of local scenes like coffee farms, ranches, oxen carts, campesinos and mountain scenery at reasonable prices. You can buy local fruits like bananas, pijibay, jocotes, oranges, grapefruit, nisperos, mamey, etc.
Eat
While in Matagalpa you can eat traditional Indian cuisine, like:
"Guirila" a thick tortilla made with corn which gives it a sweeter taste than normal tortillas. Try it with fresh, salty cheese called "cuajada".
"Nacatamal", a banana leave wrap filled with boiled Indian corn dough, some meat (pork or chicken) flavored with olives, raisin, tomatoes, onions and chili.
“Carne Asada” BBQued beef or pork meat with roasted corn tortillas
"Platanitos con frijoles molidos" fried banana slices with smashed fried red beans.
"Chrurrasco con chimichurri". BBQued beef fillet with spicey vegetable cream, white rice and salads. Accompanied with bread or corn tortillas.
"Pescado a la Tititapa". Favorite of the Gods. Fresh Guapote (Snapper type fish), bathed on whole tomato slices and onions served with rice and corn tortillas.
Drink
You can have a fresh roasted Matagalpa coffee cup cooked in a French brewer, in places like Selva Negra Mountain Resort, Cecocafen, etc. You’re gonna love the coffee. Buy several bags to take back with you.
Where to Stay
Matagalpa has many different types of lodging places. You can find little inns from US$7 to more comfortable ones from $15 to $30 per person. In the downtown area you find little hotels like: Soza, Moderno, Plaza. A few blocks from the main Cathedral you have the Fountainbleu Hotel, Lomas de Saint Thomas. the IDeal and the Caoba.
Outside of the City you will find Campestre Barcelona, La Sombra (Carretera a La Dalia), and Selva Negra Mountain Resort ( Km 140 Carrtera Matagalpa a Jinotega) and other smaller ones. Unlike other parts of Nicaragua, the room usually does not include .
Nearby
You can visit the neighboring town of San Ramon (15 minutes by car) and on weekends you can see the campesinos playing polkas y mazurcas. Visit the tomb in the local Cemetery where Katharina Braun Elster is buried (she was the first person who planted coffee in the area. As mentioned before, you should visit the Indian Community of "El Chile" where Indian do their own fabric in an old "rueca" (spinning wheel). Take the highway from Matagalpa to Jinotega for a view of Nicaragua that looks like the Smoky Mountains of North Carolina with an altitude of more than 5000 feet. You can see as far as the Momotombo Volcano near Managua and temperatures range from 55F to 70F. Little mountain hotels can be found along the road and some offer horseback riding, mountain hiking, bird watching, coffee and farm tours.
Esteli
Not that many tourists go to Esteli in northern Nicaragua though it is a nice destination with a cooler climate yet with the advantages of a larger city. An ideal location to retire to if you are looking for a quieter place but still need some restaurants and grocery stores. Many small farms dot the nearby countryside.
"El Diamante de las Segovias" ("The Diamond of the Segovias") Estelí, officially Villa de San Antonio de Pavia de Estelí, is a city and municipality within the Estelí department.
It is an active commercial center in the north located on the Pan-American Highway, 150 km north of Managua, Estelí is a fast growing and progressive city of about 119,000 people. It enjoys a pleasant climate throughout most of the year due to its location in the north central highlands at a mean elevation of 844 m above sea level. The city is also surrounded by forested mountains and plateaus that go up to 1600 m above sea level, some which are protected as natural reserves. The population is around 100,900 (2005) and their website is http://www.alcaldiaesteli.gob.ni/. Estelí has the best water supply system in the country with near-full population coverage. It also has an extensive sewage disposal coverage.
Economy & Tourism
The land around Estelí is perfect for growing tobacco for use in cigars and the town became a refuge for Cuban cigar makers after the Cuban Revolution in 1959. Award winning cigars have made Estelí one of the most important cigar-producing cities in the world. Estelí also has many language schools, restaurants, and hotels that cater to tourists traveling to nearby natural reserves and other parts of the region. Natural Reserves around the area include Miraflor, Tisey-Estanzuela, Las Brisas-Quiabuc, Tomabu, Tepesomoto and Moropotente.
According to the World Bank and International Finance Corporation's Municipal Scorecard 2008, which complements the annual Doing Business report, the municipality of Esteli ranks 1st and 2nd, out of 143 municipalities in ten Latin American countries, in quality and efficiency to obtain a construction permit and municipal operating license respectively.
Sports
Estelí is home to one the best and most popular football (soccer) clubs in the country, the Real Esteli, nicknamed "The Train of the North." It is also home to a professional baseball team, Las Segovias - Esteli, which makes it one of only three cities in the country with both a professional football (soccer) and baseball team. During the 1970s, Esteli participated in the "Roberto Clemente" baseball tournament and had one of best baseball teams in the country with the help of one-time big league players like Porfi Altamirano and Albert Williams.
See and Do
Lots of beautiful murals in various places around town.
Catedral de Estelí - The Esteli Cathedral has gone through some dramatic changes. First, in 1823 it was only a humble and small clay house. It is situated in an area of almost two acres, including the building and garden surrounding it.
Miraflor is an agricultural cooperative a couple of hours outside of Esteli in the mountains. There are a number of places at Miraflor where you can stay in cabins or with families, ride horses, meet farmers, look at orchids, etc. Famous for its many cliffs, canyons and steep valleys, its highest peak is at 1450 meters above sea level. The forest here is evergreenand it is for having a large variety of orchids. They say only 10 % of the area has been explored, with 150 species found so far but many more could be discovered. Miraflor Nature Reserve is an area of 206 square kilometers. Most attractions in Miraflor are privately owned, often by poor campesinos (farmers). Your financial support helps to continue the preservation of these unique forests. Their website is www.Miraflor.org.
236 distinct bird species belonging to 46 different families inhabit or fly through these mountains—that’s nearly 40 percent of all bird species in the country, including four species of the elusive, but beautiful quetzal, toucans, the ranchero (with its three dangling chins) and the Nicaraguan national bird, the guardabarranco. The reserves are also one of your best chances to spot coyotes, deer, sloths, howler monkeys, raccoons, skunks, armadillos, and exotic rodents. Among the more than 300 identified species of orchids is an enormous colony of Cattleya skinniri (the national flower of Costa Rica), as well as plenty of bromeliads and a museum of other orchids from throughout the reserve.
Short hikes are possible through any of the hundreds of pockets of forest, but ask your guide to take you on one of the more adventurous trips. Although difficult to access, the 60-meter waterfall at La Chorrera is one of the wildest spots in the reserve. The Caves of Apaguis were dug in pre-Columbian times by gem seekers and have been occupied ever since by duendes (dwarves), as any local will inform you. The mature cloud forest of Bosque Los Volcancitos is Miraflor’s highest point at 1,484 meters and is a known habitat for howler monkeys and quetzals.
Tisey is a nature preserve just south of Esteli. On the way up, you can stop in Estanzuela and see a waterfall. The mountains here are covered with tobacco and/or pine trees, typical of the area. Great cuisine is also a distinctive feature of this privileged region. From the top you can observe the Esteli valley. The scenery here is very pretty with colorful and large farms everywhere. The waterfall is a gorgeous 15 meter, rainy-season-only waterfall that plunges into a cold, shady pool, all smothered in colorful native flora and fauna. From the top of Tisey on a clear day, you can make out the Pacific coastal plain and the entire chain of volcanic peaks from Cosigüina to Lake Managua and Momotombo, the Estelí valley, and north to the mountains of the Segovias on the horizon.
La Garnacha is a community consisting mostly of organic farmers plus a factory of some amazingly good cheese. To visit, you need to get off the bus at the La Garnacha sign and walk up their road about 2km. From there, if you are still up for a hike, you can walk to and climb up Cerro Apaguají. It is on private property but open to the public. It's about another 1km of hike from La Garnacha. From the cerro you can see Lake Managua to the south, the chain of volcanos along the Pacific and, on a clear day, part of El Salvador on the other side of the Gulf of Fonseca.
The Esteli region is also home to many fine cigar companies, most of whom will allow a prearranged tour, and some of whom offer special package tours of their factories.
