General Information on Living Here
Granada Cathedral
Things to Consider Before Moving Here
It’s a different country, a different culture and you’re thinking about moving here for an extended period. We love Nicaragua but it’s not for everyone. If you are not willing to learn a new culture and some of the language, you’re probably not going to make it here. Not everyone here is going to like you, including some of the expatriates. You will be the outsider, the new kid in school. You will experience some culture shock but every day is an adventure.
Some things to consider before or when you move here:
Think Hard About It
Is Nicaragua the country for you? If it is then where do you want to live in Nicaragua? People ask us if it is hot here. I don’t know. Is it hot in the states? Depends on the season and the location. Right now it is 88 in Granada, 90 in Managua, low 70s in Jinotega and so on. We have beaches, mountains, valleys and rain forests. Visit several times and especially during the worst months of the year. April and May are the hottest in Granada and October is the wettest month. Rent for at least six months to a year. You are the minority here so get used to it.
Be Prepared
There will be frustrations. You took for granted many of the things in your home country. Don’t think of the challenges as barriers but as opportunities to learn more about a different world. For example, this is a cash society when you might be used to charging everything and no one seems ever to have the right change. Life is so much easier when there is no debt and no mortgages. You will never buy anything you cannot afford because you can’t. We can’t stress enough the importance of renting for 6-12 months before deciding where to live or even how to live. A wonderful surprise is that you can live on much less than you thought because so many things from your old world are no longer necessary.
While not true for everyone, it seems that women suffer more with missing family and friends while men tend to suffer more frustration learning the language and adjusting to the change in work opportunities. If retiring to Nicaragua, your frustration may actually be the shock of spending 24 hours a day with your life partner. This was difficult for my wife and I upon arriving in Nicaragua. We had both been workaholics and we had to learn to have our own schedules and projects here to stay sane.
What Kind of People Move Here?
Whew, now that is a loaded question! How do we address this without taking sides or alienating some of our friends here or scaring newcomers away? Well, the answer is that there are all kinds but it is surprising who lives here and moves here. And each day, more and more normal people are moving here. We consider ourselves a normal couple though I consider myself as more normal than my wife.
The true natives have been here since pre-Colombian times then about 500 years ago the Spanish conquistadors arrived, obliterated the natives then claimed they had discovered the new world. Most of the people resulting from this Spanish invasion and others from their home countries that settled here now consider themselves the natives. Of the expats there are a few hardy souls that moved here in the 1980s but most have been here eight years or less.
Think of Nicaragua as California in the late 1800s. The mountain men first arrived and survived by brute strength and determination followed closely by the priests driven to save those native souls then streams of people began coming by covered wagon. Of course, many of them came to find the gold. It is the same for the expats here. Many of the original ones were strong people that might have been with the Peace Corps or other organizations trying to help Nicaragua then just decided to stay here. Others of the original lot were from Eastern Europe or Cuba while the Nicaraguan government was looking for assistance from the socialist countries when USA and western aid was cut off right after the revolution in the 1980s. Regardless of their home country, all of these people fell in love with Nicaragua and simply stayed.
Fast forward to around 2002 and Nicaragua was again discovered but mostly by surfers and developers buying cheap, large tracts of land mostly along the Pacific Coast. Nicaragua did look good with beautiful coasts, a gentle people, a stable democratic government, cheap land and supposedly the investment profits of the next Costa Rica. Using the Internet, clever marketing schemes and sky rocketing real estate costs in the states and Europe and you have everything you need to start another gold rush but this time for land. I heard an unsubstantiated statement that 1900 lots were sold along the Pacific Coast and most sold sight unseen over the Internet or by International Living using their seminars or country tours. It would be a surprise to find out that 100 houses were ever built on those lots so most were purchased for speculation. Ahhhh, black gold!
Jump to 2006 with the beginning of the global credit crisis and Daniel Ortega being democratically elected as president. These two events quickly cooled the real estate market in Nicaragua though Ortega has proven to be as capitalistic as any politician with a lot of money. Things are starting to pick up again (September 2012) with houses selling in Granada.
Anyway, these tumultous times have attracted different people to Nicaragua. Since the cost of living is lower here we have our share of people looking to live better on a small income such as the pensions that would barely suffice in the states or Europe. We have a lot of people that are associated with non-profits or volunteer groups trying to help Nicaragua. We still have a lot of developers trying to sell land. We do have some men (and women) coming to meet and possibly marry young women (men) since there is little age discimination here.
The largest group of expats are from the states though not the majority. The next largest group is Canadians closely followed by Europeans, especially Denmark and Holland but almost every major country is represented. There are a lot of Germans in the Matagalpa area because they were crossing Nicaragua to get to California in the mid 1800s during the gold rush and many decided to just stay in Nicaragua. By the way, the definition of a gringo is usually someone from the states or Canada. The embassies and the international companies also account for much of the foreign population. Granada has the largest foreign population, supposedly around 1,000 though we can't account for half of them. Many live secluded on the farms and slopes of the neighboring hills.
The majority of the present foreign population tends to be Type A personalities though with open minds so confrontations and hearty discussions are common. I would say the majority tend to be liberal but we have our share of the conservatives. We even have one person that supports Sarah Palin as a role model, go figure. The average expatriate is well read if not well educated. Don't start a discussion unless you have your facts ready. There is a high entrepreneurial spirit in many of the expats. Frankly, a lot of people are here because they're just tired of the politics, commercialism and direction of the states. Living in Nicaragua is a little bit like going back in time.
In the last few years we are seeing younger people coming, many with families. We seem to be at a turning point in the type of people coming. Several of the developments have reached the point where there are enough people to support community activities which leads to area restaurants and stores becoming viable. We think the growing expat population will start to live more in the developments though many of these new people will only live here part-time. Granada will continue to lead in growing the expat community along with Managua, San Juan del Sur, León, Ometepe and eventually Estelí and Matagalpa. It was the same with Costa Rica. The east coast will be the last to grow. Of course, all of this depends on the global economy improving especially in the states and Europe.
Before we discuss crime. we should mention that a low cost of living does not always attract the cream of the crop. The expat community has a significant percentage of people hiding from the IRS, alimony, child support and unfortunately, the law. Of that group there are a few that like little girls and boys.
Crime
If you did your research or read any of the real estate ads you know that Nicaragua is considered one of the safest countries in Central and South America and is rated better than the USA. Well, that is true but there is no reliable source of data here since the records of the government and the police only show reported crimes and much is unreported for the non-violent crimes.
We are amazed that violent crime is so low especially since the police have so few resources (like gasoline), little training and are very much underpaid. The police are not corrupt but they are not efficient and do not respond well to calls for assistance but they are trying in their own way. The low level of violent crime is a tribute to the wonderful people here. The greatest problem is opportunity theft but fortunately most of the thieves are not very bright. Robberies in the home are a problem which is why you see bars or doors on every window. If you take the proper steps and care, you probably will not have problems. We have lived here since 2006 and have never been mugged or robbed, knock on wood. In our home town of Charlotte, North Carolina our home was robbed twice, our car broken into once and my wife was mugged. Keep things in perspective. The incidence of crime is higher in larger cities obviously and San Juan del Sur has the most crime per capita.
Being in a new country you might wonder what precautions you can take. Please remember that crime exists in all countries and in Nicaragua, few criminals have weapons unlike some countries. You can live in a mature development that provides 24 hour security if you are really worried. If at night, take a taxi, it costs very little. Do not wear flashy jewelry or watches. That necklace of coffee beans looks as good as any diamond necklace down here plus we're not easily impressed. Upon leaving a bank, do not walk down the street counting your cash. A $100 is a month's pay here. Don't go to the ATM at night even if there is a security guard near. Hint - they are not going to rob you in front of the ATM. If you plan to have a vehicle, buy a place with a garage. Have a large dog preferably but any barking dog tends to scare away intruders. Still worried? Get a cuidador (caretaker, night guard), labor is cheap here or live near a policeman's home. Never take a purse or wallet into a crowded marketplace. Using, buying or selling drugs will increase your chance of a crime incident.
Many of the thefts will be from your own employees or their relatives or their friends. Remember that you are very wealthy compared to the majority of your neighbors here. Many of the apprehended thieves are surprised you want them put in jail because the stolen items can be replaced so easily by a wealthy person. Some expats buy guns when they get here. I grew up on a farm and had many guns and pistols but am no longer a proponent of your right to a firearm. You can legally buy a gun if you are a resident here but my experience is that people with guns seem to find themselves in more predicaments where they must use the gun. Only my opinion.
Best of all, become friendly with all of your neighbors. We would not live here if we truly felt crime was a major issue.
Daniel Ortega
I have to admit I am surprised when someone asks about the safety of Nicaragua since Daniel Ortega has come into power. First, he was democratically elected by the people and that is what a democracy is all about. Is he corrupt? Appears so. Does he have socialistic leanings and a chip on his shoulder against the USA? Yup. Does he care about the poor people of Nicaragua? Very much so. Is he worse than the previous administrations? No.
Upon his inauguration, Ortega removed the school fees so that more children could afford school, he removed the requirement for school uniforms so that more poor children could attend and he instituted a food program for the students. There are now more school books and materials coming to the public schools. Not enough but more. During his administration, bills were passed that finally solved ownership of the coastal areas and increased the benefits of retired expats moving here. Both bills were received with acclamation. The roads are in better shape than in the past 10 years. Yes, Ortega has spooked investors though there are not that many since the global credit crisis.
Nicaragua would make more progress without the corruption but the only reason there is more here than in the states is due to stronger laws there. Ortega does not want to do anything that would negatively affect tourism or expats living here though just his presence has had a negative effect on tourism and investment. He does want to be president for life, though.
Your Budget
Things may be cheaper but other costs do appear. Another good reason to rent for a while is to see what it really costs to live here. Electricity is much more expensive here but we do not use much. The refrigerator and the pool pump are our greatest electrical users. Unexpected costs will include money to help neighbors, when your maid’s daughter is sick, helping volunteer organizations. Many people help a cause here. The ATMS work great but don’t expect to cash a foreign check which can take 15 business days to clear.
Rent will probably be the first month and a deposit of one month if long term. If dealing with a property manager you can probably pay with a credit card and do not expect anyone to take your check unless it is on a local bank. The dollar is taken everywhere while the hotels and nicer restaurants take credit cards.
Get Your Paperwork Together
Assuming you plan on becoming a resident, start gathering your required documents as soon as possible because it is really difficult to do so from Nicaragua. Many friends have blown their budget because they had to make several unplanned trips to their home country to get something signed, notarized or translated. One thing to think about is whether to keep a bank account and credit card in your home country and the answer is usually yes. You can get a credit card from a Nicaraguan bank but many companies, like Spirit Airlines, will not accept a Nicaraguan credit card. Again, talk to other expatriates since the ATM withdrawals are more expensive on a foreign account. There are some banks that do not charge on foreign withdrawals.
Health Benefits
They probably will not cover you down here but check. The Pellas Hospital in Managua accepts many international insurance plans (see section on Pellas Hospital plans and services). With health care in a turmoil in the states, it is even more chaotic now. Even Medicaid is not effective here though your insurance may simply require you to return to the states for the medical care and coverage. See the section on health care for more details. We requested copies of all of our medical and dental files before leaving which is your right. Many international medical benefit plans are available or do like most people here, pay as you go since it is much cheaper here. Most drugs are available here but arrive with at least two months of your required medications. In many ways the doctors here are as good if not better in some respects since they are not required to follow the rules of the insurance companies.
Have a medical checkup regularly here since your conditions may have changed. I was on drugs for high cholesterol in the states but a recent checkup now shows I have normal levels. See, the food is better here.
Assets in the Home Country
We sold everything when we moved here. Since it was before the global financial crisis, people think we were prescient and brilliant but it was dumb luck. It is a decision you have to make since homes and land are difficult to sell now. Perhaps you can rent your old home just in case you decided to move back to your home country or need somewhere to stay when visiting. It is probably a good idea to keep a bank account and credit card active. You’ll probably keep your IRAs, 401Ks and other retirement vehicles where they are. Don’t forget, you can buy property here with your IRAs but it can’t be for a home you will live in full-time.
Use a mail forwarding service that allows you to have a street address in your home country. In this manner, you do not have to let everyone know you have left the country. Don’t forget to change your address on all important accounts. No problem receiving letters, magazines and books either through your forwarding service or the postal service using your Nica address. Almost everything else has a possibility of disappearing or taxed up to and possibly over 100% of the value. Ensure all deliveries have an invoice in the package. Customs will open all packages. My wife’s father sent five pounds of candy and customs wanted $85 for taxes and handling. We told them to keep the candy and it arrived at our house a week later.
Employment
So many people arrive here and expect to find a job. Unless you have a rare skill, your competition will work for $2 an hour or less. The unemployment is near 35% and under-employment tops 60%. Starting a business is a better option. There are jobs available and some companies prefer expatriates but don’t let your move depend on it. Use the Internet to see your options and make contact before coming to Nicaragua.
Embrace the Culture
If you want to live in a walled, secure neighborhood with no contact with Nicaragua you might want to think about staying in your home country. We have another saying here “There are those that live in Nicaragua and those that live on Nicaragua”. It may not be as simple as that but you get the drift. Embrace the culture and learn some of the language. Nicaragua has a rich history and we hope a bright future. Be part of it!
Family and Friends
Assuming you want them to know, inform all of your friends and family on how to contact you. The Internet makes this easy these days. Remember, you are not that far away. They may envy you or think you are crazy but they will wish they had the gumption to do the same. Many people say they can not be that far from their children or grandchildren but taking that to the extreme, you would still be living at home with your parents. Return twice a year and visit. God gave us friends to make up for family.
Nicaragua is not that far away from the states. Half of the USA is further from New York City than Nicaragua is. Look at a map.
Your Stuff
You will want to bring as little as possible yet some things are difficult to obtain here. It depends on if you are arriving with large suitcases or shipping a container with a vehicle. We brought a lot of books which was a wise decision at first but a waste later and we wish we had brought more lamps. For some reason, quality lamps are rare here. There is no reason to bring furniture since quality furniture can be made for reasonable prices.
When we arrived 2006, we brought our 2005 Liberty Jeep and bought a 12’ x 6’ x 6’ trailer which we towed to Miami. We stuffed the trailer with books, 1 futon, a new LCD TV, towels, sheets, clothes and kitchen ware. When we arrived at the Miami port, they lifted the trailer directly to the ship and drove the vehicle into a container. Total moving cost about $3,500. The trailer has been very handy to have here since it is enclosed. In our suitcases we brought hundreds of DVDs, our laptop PCs and clothing.
Unless a company is moving your family, we advise avoiding the moving service companies. They are very expensive. A full container is not much more expensive than a half-full one so if using one, stuff it with what you can up to the $20,000 limit. Don’t forget to do the required detailed inventory in Spanish and English (or your native language). What do we wish we had brought more of? Reference books are expensive here assuming you can find them i.e. dictionaries, atlases, Spanish language courses, etc. More quality kitchen ware since we cook a lot.
Probably due to CAFTA, computers and quality televisions have plummeted in price here. Netbooks are available under $300 but stereo systems including boomboxes are still somewhat higher than in the states.
Bring a Vehicle or Buy it Here?
There is the third choice of not bothering having a vehicle. In the long run it is much cheaper hiring a driver or renting a vehicle when you need it. Many of our friends here do not have a vehicle. Most houses do not have a garage or it is so small that it is difficult to open the car door. Even with car insurance of less than $75 a year, gas is already at $5 per gallon (May 2014) and some of the roads are very rough. But we like the convenience of having a vehicle and we have a large garage. In three years we put on less than 5,000 miles but I also have a motorcycle.
Should you bring a vehicle? We posed this question to a lot of expats before we arrived and the opinion was split. Bringing a vehicle gives you the comfort of a vehicle you trust and know. It must be ten years or less in age and the current restriction to avoid custom taxes is $25,000. Our warranty would not cover Nicaragua but Jeep parts are common. Car prices are about the same as in the states which means they are expensive for Nicaragua. Fords and Chevys are rare here including parts and most vehicles of substance are diesel. Most vehicles do not have automatic transmissions. Buying a new vehicle here ensures you have a warranty.
Buying a used car wasn’t easy in the states and it is even more difficult here. Due to the expense, people do not give up vehicles until they are pretty used up. Scheduled maintenance is unheard of here. Parts are replaced only when they break. An acquaintance was selling a vehicle in perfect condition. The buyer had to bring a battery to try it out and the brakes were metal against metal meaning no brake pads. Most friends buying a used vehicle here usually had large repair bills to make the vehicle drivable. In updating this, there are a lot more expats and wealthier Nicas now and thus, there are more good used vehicles.
If you must have a vehicle, bring it or buy a new one here. Unless you will stay on the major roads you will need 4WD. If you must have a vehicle repaired here, do not watch the work. It is amazing what they can do with so few tools here but it is not easy to watch. Cars and trucks are 30-40% more expensive here.
Phones and Other Electronic Devices
As soon as you arrive, get a cellular phone and buy enough minutes. You don’t want to get stuck in the middle of nowhere and have no way to contact someone. The cellular coverage here is better than in the states. You can go on a plan where you do not need to buy minutes but you are usually required to be a resident to do so.
Electricity is the same as in the states (110v) and the same type of outlets though some of the older homes built by Europeans have the two round outlet pegs. Electricity availability is much better than it used to be but expect outages at the strangest times. For this reason always use a surge protector on all devices that are sensitive such as TVs, desktop computers and major appliances. Laptops are usually not affected since they are protected by a transformer and switch immediately to battery backup. Just because the outlet has three poles do not assume the ground is wired (even in a new home). We installed a battery backup system in our home and it negates most of these issues. Some people buy generators but they are noisy, make your neighbors mad and gas is $5 a gallon.
Be a Good Neighbor and Friend
Whether locals or fellow expats, nothing will help you more than being able to rely on the assistance of your friends when you need it. Some people worry about security in the new country but good neighbors are better than armed guards. Help them and they will help you. Don't think that socializing is time wasted, it's what makes a new country feel like home. Have a party and invite the neighbors.
Moving to a new country is difficult. Even when everything goes according to plan it's still difficult. There will be times when you're physically and emotionally exhausted but try not to let things get to you. Don't be shy about asking for help or support, there are plenty of people who have been there before.
Climate and Weather
Nicaragua's climate is tropical and the country climate can be divided into three distinct
climatic regions: the coast along the Caribbean Sea, the coast along the Pacific Ocean and
the northern mountainous region.
The coast which faces the Pacific ocean is characterized by a dry season which runs from December to April, while the rainy season is between May and November, average temperatures for this area of the country are 27°C (81 F), while the average annual rainfall is 45-75 inches.
The coast of the Caribbean Sea is more rainy, here the rainy season is a long 9 months, while
the dry season is between March and May, the annual average temperatures are 26°C (80 F),
while the average annual precipitation is 3,800 mm (149 in).
The mountainous northern region has a cooler climate, with average annual temperatures of
18°C (60 F)in this area the average annual rainfall is 1000-1500 mm, concentrated in the
months between May and October.
The average temperature in Managua, Nicaragua is 26.8 °C (80 °F).
The highest monthly average high temperature is 32 °C (90 °F) in April & May.
The lowest monthly average low temperature is 23 °C (73 °F) in January.
Managua, Nicaragua's climate receives an average of 1142 mm (45.0 in) of rainfall per year, or 95 mm (3.7 in) per month.
On average there are 122 days per year with more than 0.1 mm (0.004 in) of rainfall (precipitation)
The driest weather is in February when an average of 1 mm (<0.1 in) of rainfall
The wettest weather is in June when an average of 296 mm (11.7 in) of rainfall
There are an average of 0 days per year with frost.
Some things to consider before or when you move here:
Think Hard About It
Is Nicaragua the country for you? If it is then where do you want to live in Nicaragua? People ask us if it is hot here. I don’t know. Is it hot in the states? Depends on the season and the location. Right now it is 88 in Granada, 90 in Managua, low 70s in Jinotega and so on. We have beaches, mountains, valleys and rain forests. Visit several times and especially during the worst months of the year. April and May are the hottest in Granada and October is the wettest month. Rent for at least six months to a year. You are the minority here so get used to it.
Be Prepared
There will be frustrations. You took for granted many of the things in your home country. Don’t think of the challenges as barriers but as opportunities to learn more about a different world. For example, this is a cash society when you might be used to charging everything and no one seems ever to have the right change. Life is so much easier when there is no debt and no mortgages. You will never buy anything you cannot afford because you can’t. We can’t stress enough the importance of renting for 6-12 months before deciding where to live or even how to live. A wonderful surprise is that you can live on much less than you thought because so many things from your old world are no longer necessary.
While not true for everyone, it seems that women suffer more with missing family and friends while men tend to suffer more frustration learning the language and adjusting to the change in work opportunities. If retiring to Nicaragua, your frustration may actually be the shock of spending 24 hours a day with your life partner. This was difficult for my wife and I upon arriving in Nicaragua. We had both been workaholics and we had to learn to have our own schedules and projects here to stay sane.
What Kind of People Move Here?
Whew, now that is a loaded question! How do we address this without taking sides or alienating some of our friends here or scaring newcomers away? Well, the answer is that there are all kinds but it is surprising who lives here and moves here. And each day, more and more normal people are moving here. We consider ourselves a normal couple though I consider myself as more normal than my wife.
The true natives have been here since pre-Colombian times then about 500 years ago the Spanish conquistadors arrived, obliterated the natives then claimed they had discovered the new world. Most of the people resulting from this Spanish invasion and others from their home countries that settled here now consider themselves the natives. Of the expats there are a few hardy souls that moved here in the 1980s but most have been here eight years or less.
Think of Nicaragua as California in the late 1800s. The mountain men first arrived and survived by brute strength and determination followed closely by the priests driven to save those native souls then streams of people began coming by covered wagon. Of course, many of them came to find the gold. It is the same for the expats here. Many of the original ones were strong people that might have been with the Peace Corps or other organizations trying to help Nicaragua then just decided to stay here. Others of the original lot were from Eastern Europe or Cuba while the Nicaraguan government was looking for assistance from the socialist countries when USA and western aid was cut off right after the revolution in the 1980s. Regardless of their home country, all of these people fell in love with Nicaragua and simply stayed.
Fast forward to around 2002 and Nicaragua was again discovered but mostly by surfers and developers buying cheap, large tracts of land mostly along the Pacific Coast. Nicaragua did look good with beautiful coasts, a gentle people, a stable democratic government, cheap land and supposedly the investment profits of the next Costa Rica. Using the Internet, clever marketing schemes and sky rocketing real estate costs in the states and Europe and you have everything you need to start another gold rush but this time for land. I heard an unsubstantiated statement that 1900 lots were sold along the Pacific Coast and most sold sight unseen over the Internet or by International Living using their seminars or country tours. It would be a surprise to find out that 100 houses were ever built on those lots so most were purchased for speculation. Ahhhh, black gold!
Jump to 2006 with the beginning of the global credit crisis and Daniel Ortega being democratically elected as president. These two events quickly cooled the real estate market in Nicaragua though Ortega has proven to be as capitalistic as any politician with a lot of money. Things are starting to pick up again (September 2012) with houses selling in Granada.
Anyway, these tumultous times have attracted different people to Nicaragua. Since the cost of living is lower here we have our share of people looking to live better on a small income such as the pensions that would barely suffice in the states or Europe. We have a lot of people that are associated with non-profits or volunteer groups trying to help Nicaragua. We still have a lot of developers trying to sell land. We do have some men (and women) coming to meet and possibly marry young women (men) since there is little age discimination here.
The largest group of expats are from the states though not the majority. The next largest group is Canadians closely followed by Europeans, especially Denmark and Holland but almost every major country is represented. There are a lot of Germans in the Matagalpa area because they were crossing Nicaragua to get to California in the mid 1800s during the gold rush and many decided to just stay in Nicaragua. By the way, the definition of a gringo is usually someone from the states or Canada. The embassies and the international companies also account for much of the foreign population. Granada has the largest foreign population, supposedly around 1,000 though we can't account for half of them. Many live secluded on the farms and slopes of the neighboring hills.
The majority of the present foreign population tends to be Type A personalities though with open minds so confrontations and hearty discussions are common. I would say the majority tend to be liberal but we have our share of the conservatives. We even have one person that supports Sarah Palin as a role model, go figure. The average expatriate is well read if not well educated. Don't start a discussion unless you have your facts ready. There is a high entrepreneurial spirit in many of the expats. Frankly, a lot of people are here because they're just tired of the politics, commercialism and direction of the states. Living in Nicaragua is a little bit like going back in time.
In the last few years we are seeing younger people coming, many with families. We seem to be at a turning point in the type of people coming. Several of the developments have reached the point where there are enough people to support community activities which leads to area restaurants and stores becoming viable. We think the growing expat population will start to live more in the developments though many of these new people will only live here part-time. Granada will continue to lead in growing the expat community along with Managua, San Juan del Sur, León, Ometepe and eventually Estelí and Matagalpa. It was the same with Costa Rica. The east coast will be the last to grow. Of course, all of this depends on the global economy improving especially in the states and Europe.
Before we discuss crime. we should mention that a low cost of living does not always attract the cream of the crop. The expat community has a significant percentage of people hiding from the IRS, alimony, child support and unfortunately, the law. Of that group there are a few that like little girls and boys.
Crime
If you did your research or read any of the real estate ads you know that Nicaragua is considered one of the safest countries in Central and South America and is rated better than the USA. Well, that is true but there is no reliable source of data here since the records of the government and the police only show reported crimes and much is unreported for the non-violent crimes.
We are amazed that violent crime is so low especially since the police have so few resources (like gasoline), little training and are very much underpaid. The police are not corrupt but they are not efficient and do not respond well to calls for assistance but they are trying in their own way. The low level of violent crime is a tribute to the wonderful people here. The greatest problem is opportunity theft but fortunately most of the thieves are not very bright. Robberies in the home are a problem which is why you see bars or doors on every window. If you take the proper steps and care, you probably will not have problems. We have lived here since 2006 and have never been mugged or robbed, knock on wood. In our home town of Charlotte, North Carolina our home was robbed twice, our car broken into once and my wife was mugged. Keep things in perspective. The incidence of crime is higher in larger cities obviously and San Juan del Sur has the most crime per capita.
Being in a new country you might wonder what precautions you can take. Please remember that crime exists in all countries and in Nicaragua, few criminals have weapons unlike some countries. You can live in a mature development that provides 24 hour security if you are really worried. If at night, take a taxi, it costs very little. Do not wear flashy jewelry or watches. That necklace of coffee beans looks as good as any diamond necklace down here plus we're not easily impressed. Upon leaving a bank, do not walk down the street counting your cash. A $100 is a month's pay here. Don't go to the ATM at night even if there is a security guard near. Hint - they are not going to rob you in front of the ATM. If you plan to have a vehicle, buy a place with a garage. Have a large dog preferably but any barking dog tends to scare away intruders. Still worried? Get a cuidador (caretaker, night guard), labor is cheap here or live near a policeman's home. Never take a purse or wallet into a crowded marketplace. Using, buying or selling drugs will increase your chance of a crime incident.
Many of the thefts will be from your own employees or their relatives or their friends. Remember that you are very wealthy compared to the majority of your neighbors here. Many of the apprehended thieves are surprised you want them put in jail because the stolen items can be replaced so easily by a wealthy person. Some expats buy guns when they get here. I grew up on a farm and had many guns and pistols but am no longer a proponent of your right to a firearm. You can legally buy a gun if you are a resident here but my experience is that people with guns seem to find themselves in more predicaments where they must use the gun. Only my opinion.
Best of all, become friendly with all of your neighbors. We would not live here if we truly felt crime was a major issue.
Daniel Ortega
I have to admit I am surprised when someone asks about the safety of Nicaragua since Daniel Ortega has come into power. First, he was democratically elected by the people and that is what a democracy is all about. Is he corrupt? Appears so. Does he have socialistic leanings and a chip on his shoulder against the USA? Yup. Does he care about the poor people of Nicaragua? Very much so. Is he worse than the previous administrations? No.
Upon his inauguration, Ortega removed the school fees so that more children could afford school, he removed the requirement for school uniforms so that more poor children could attend and he instituted a food program for the students. There are now more school books and materials coming to the public schools. Not enough but more. During his administration, bills were passed that finally solved ownership of the coastal areas and increased the benefits of retired expats moving here. Both bills were received with acclamation. The roads are in better shape than in the past 10 years. Yes, Ortega has spooked investors though there are not that many since the global credit crisis.
Nicaragua would make more progress without the corruption but the only reason there is more here than in the states is due to stronger laws there. Ortega does not want to do anything that would negatively affect tourism or expats living here though just his presence has had a negative effect on tourism and investment. He does want to be president for life, though.
Your Budget
Things may be cheaper but other costs do appear. Another good reason to rent for a while is to see what it really costs to live here. Electricity is much more expensive here but we do not use much. The refrigerator and the pool pump are our greatest electrical users. Unexpected costs will include money to help neighbors, when your maid’s daughter is sick, helping volunteer organizations. Many people help a cause here. The ATMS work great but don’t expect to cash a foreign check which can take 15 business days to clear.
Rent will probably be the first month and a deposit of one month if long term. If dealing with a property manager you can probably pay with a credit card and do not expect anyone to take your check unless it is on a local bank. The dollar is taken everywhere while the hotels and nicer restaurants take credit cards.
Get Your Paperwork Together
Assuming you plan on becoming a resident, start gathering your required documents as soon as possible because it is really difficult to do so from Nicaragua. Many friends have blown their budget because they had to make several unplanned trips to their home country to get something signed, notarized or translated. One thing to think about is whether to keep a bank account and credit card in your home country and the answer is usually yes. You can get a credit card from a Nicaraguan bank but many companies, like Spirit Airlines, will not accept a Nicaraguan credit card. Again, talk to other expatriates since the ATM withdrawals are more expensive on a foreign account. There are some banks that do not charge on foreign withdrawals.
Health Benefits
They probably will not cover you down here but check. The Pellas Hospital in Managua accepts many international insurance plans (see section on Pellas Hospital plans and services). With health care in a turmoil in the states, it is even more chaotic now. Even Medicaid is not effective here though your insurance may simply require you to return to the states for the medical care and coverage. See the section on health care for more details. We requested copies of all of our medical and dental files before leaving which is your right. Many international medical benefit plans are available or do like most people here, pay as you go since it is much cheaper here. Most drugs are available here but arrive with at least two months of your required medications. In many ways the doctors here are as good if not better in some respects since they are not required to follow the rules of the insurance companies.
Have a medical checkup regularly here since your conditions may have changed. I was on drugs for high cholesterol in the states but a recent checkup now shows I have normal levels. See, the food is better here.
Assets in the Home Country
We sold everything when we moved here. Since it was before the global financial crisis, people think we were prescient and brilliant but it was dumb luck. It is a decision you have to make since homes and land are difficult to sell now. Perhaps you can rent your old home just in case you decided to move back to your home country or need somewhere to stay when visiting. It is probably a good idea to keep a bank account and credit card active. You’ll probably keep your IRAs, 401Ks and other retirement vehicles where they are. Don’t forget, you can buy property here with your IRAs but it can’t be for a home you will live in full-time.
Use a mail forwarding service that allows you to have a street address in your home country. In this manner, you do not have to let everyone know you have left the country. Don’t forget to change your address on all important accounts. No problem receiving letters, magazines and books either through your forwarding service or the postal service using your Nica address. Almost everything else has a possibility of disappearing or taxed up to and possibly over 100% of the value. Ensure all deliveries have an invoice in the package. Customs will open all packages. My wife’s father sent five pounds of candy and customs wanted $85 for taxes and handling. We told them to keep the candy and it arrived at our house a week later.
Employment
So many people arrive here and expect to find a job. Unless you have a rare skill, your competition will work for $2 an hour or less. The unemployment is near 35% and under-employment tops 60%. Starting a business is a better option. There are jobs available and some companies prefer expatriates but don’t let your move depend on it. Use the Internet to see your options and make contact before coming to Nicaragua.
Embrace the Culture
If you want to live in a walled, secure neighborhood with no contact with Nicaragua you might want to think about staying in your home country. We have another saying here “There are those that live in Nicaragua and those that live on Nicaragua”. It may not be as simple as that but you get the drift. Embrace the culture and learn some of the language. Nicaragua has a rich history and we hope a bright future. Be part of it!
Family and Friends
Assuming you want them to know, inform all of your friends and family on how to contact you. The Internet makes this easy these days. Remember, you are not that far away. They may envy you or think you are crazy but they will wish they had the gumption to do the same. Many people say they can not be that far from their children or grandchildren but taking that to the extreme, you would still be living at home with your parents. Return twice a year and visit. God gave us friends to make up for family.
Nicaragua is not that far away from the states. Half of the USA is further from New York City than Nicaragua is. Look at a map.
Your Stuff
You will want to bring as little as possible yet some things are difficult to obtain here. It depends on if you are arriving with large suitcases or shipping a container with a vehicle. We brought a lot of books which was a wise decision at first but a waste later and we wish we had brought more lamps. For some reason, quality lamps are rare here. There is no reason to bring furniture since quality furniture can be made for reasonable prices.
When we arrived 2006, we brought our 2005 Liberty Jeep and bought a 12’ x 6’ x 6’ trailer which we towed to Miami. We stuffed the trailer with books, 1 futon, a new LCD TV, towels, sheets, clothes and kitchen ware. When we arrived at the Miami port, they lifted the trailer directly to the ship and drove the vehicle into a container. Total moving cost about $3,500. The trailer has been very handy to have here since it is enclosed. In our suitcases we brought hundreds of DVDs, our laptop PCs and clothing.
Unless a company is moving your family, we advise avoiding the moving service companies. They are very expensive. A full container is not much more expensive than a half-full one so if using one, stuff it with what you can up to the $20,000 limit. Don’t forget to do the required detailed inventory in Spanish and English (or your native language). What do we wish we had brought more of? Reference books are expensive here assuming you can find them i.e. dictionaries, atlases, Spanish language courses, etc. More quality kitchen ware since we cook a lot.
Probably due to CAFTA, computers and quality televisions have plummeted in price here. Netbooks are available under $300 but stereo systems including boomboxes are still somewhat higher than in the states.
Bring a Vehicle or Buy it Here?
There is the third choice of not bothering having a vehicle. In the long run it is much cheaper hiring a driver or renting a vehicle when you need it. Many of our friends here do not have a vehicle. Most houses do not have a garage or it is so small that it is difficult to open the car door. Even with car insurance of less than $75 a year, gas is already at $5 per gallon (May 2014) and some of the roads are very rough. But we like the convenience of having a vehicle and we have a large garage. In three years we put on less than 5,000 miles but I also have a motorcycle.
Should you bring a vehicle? We posed this question to a lot of expats before we arrived and the opinion was split. Bringing a vehicle gives you the comfort of a vehicle you trust and know. It must be ten years or less in age and the current restriction to avoid custom taxes is $25,000. Our warranty would not cover Nicaragua but Jeep parts are common. Car prices are about the same as in the states which means they are expensive for Nicaragua. Fords and Chevys are rare here including parts and most vehicles of substance are diesel. Most vehicles do not have automatic transmissions. Buying a new vehicle here ensures you have a warranty.
Buying a used car wasn’t easy in the states and it is even more difficult here. Due to the expense, people do not give up vehicles until they are pretty used up. Scheduled maintenance is unheard of here. Parts are replaced only when they break. An acquaintance was selling a vehicle in perfect condition. The buyer had to bring a battery to try it out and the brakes were metal against metal meaning no brake pads. Most friends buying a used vehicle here usually had large repair bills to make the vehicle drivable. In updating this, there are a lot more expats and wealthier Nicas now and thus, there are more good used vehicles.
If you must have a vehicle, bring it or buy a new one here. Unless you will stay on the major roads you will need 4WD. If you must have a vehicle repaired here, do not watch the work. It is amazing what they can do with so few tools here but it is not easy to watch. Cars and trucks are 30-40% more expensive here.
Phones and Other Electronic Devices
As soon as you arrive, get a cellular phone and buy enough minutes. You don’t want to get stuck in the middle of nowhere and have no way to contact someone. The cellular coverage here is better than in the states. You can go on a plan where you do not need to buy minutes but you are usually required to be a resident to do so.
Electricity is the same as in the states (110v) and the same type of outlets though some of the older homes built by Europeans have the two round outlet pegs. Electricity availability is much better than it used to be but expect outages at the strangest times. For this reason always use a surge protector on all devices that are sensitive such as TVs, desktop computers and major appliances. Laptops are usually not affected since they are protected by a transformer and switch immediately to battery backup. Just because the outlet has three poles do not assume the ground is wired (even in a new home). We installed a battery backup system in our home and it negates most of these issues. Some people buy generators but they are noisy, make your neighbors mad and gas is $5 a gallon.
Be a Good Neighbor and Friend
Whether locals or fellow expats, nothing will help you more than being able to rely on the assistance of your friends when you need it. Some people worry about security in the new country but good neighbors are better than armed guards. Help them and they will help you. Don't think that socializing is time wasted, it's what makes a new country feel like home. Have a party and invite the neighbors.
Moving to a new country is difficult. Even when everything goes according to plan it's still difficult. There will be times when you're physically and emotionally exhausted but try not to let things get to you. Don't be shy about asking for help or support, there are plenty of people who have been there before.
Climate and Weather
Nicaragua's climate is tropical and the country climate can be divided into three distinct
climatic regions: the coast along the Caribbean Sea, the coast along the Pacific Ocean and
the northern mountainous region.
The coast which faces the Pacific ocean is characterized by a dry season which runs from December to April, while the rainy season is between May and November, average temperatures for this area of the country are 27°C (81 F), while the average annual rainfall is 45-75 inches.
The coast of the Caribbean Sea is more rainy, here the rainy season is a long 9 months, while
the dry season is between March and May, the annual average temperatures are 26°C (80 F),
while the average annual precipitation is 3,800 mm (149 in).
The mountainous northern region has a cooler climate, with average annual temperatures of
18°C (60 F)in this area the average annual rainfall is 1000-1500 mm, concentrated in the
months between May and October.
The average temperature in Managua, Nicaragua is 26.8 °C (80 °F).
The highest monthly average high temperature is 32 °C (90 °F) in April & May.
The lowest monthly average low temperature is 23 °C (73 °F) in January.
Managua, Nicaragua's climate receives an average of 1142 mm (45.0 in) of rainfall per year, or 95 mm (3.7 in) per month.
On average there are 122 days per year with more than 0.1 mm (0.004 in) of rainfall (precipitation)
The driest weather is in February when an average of 1 mm (<0.1 in) of rainfall
The wettest weather is in June when an average of 296 mm (11.7 in) of rainfall
There are an average of 0 days per year with frost.
